A little while ago I wrote a feature about my first visit to what quickly became one of my favourite London markets, Maltby Street Market. For one reason or t’other I never did anything with it, but thought rather than it go to waste why not post it now?
Historically speaking, Southwark began life as a melting pot of different cultures showcasing their expertise. In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries thousands of mainland Europeans flocked to London and its southern suburb and a couple of hundred years later 50,000 French Huguenots, fleeing religious persecution, followed suit.
It was this way that exotic trades such as pottery making, leather tanning, cloth and silk weaving were established in London town – gosh I love history!
Back to 2013 and I’m reminded of Southwark’s historical roots as I wander around Maltby Street Market found along Druid Street and Rope Walk. It may not be textiles and tanneries, but the area of make-shift stalls hidden among the archways of a railway line is quickly gathering a reputation for providing quality food from across the globe.
With no more than 20 traders this little market – open on Saturdays from ‘9am until the gin runs out’ – is rumoured to be the destination for those tired of the crowds and tourism of neighbouring Borough Market.
I, like everyone everywhere, love Borough Market but the prospect of a new competitor is too tempting. So with my bag packed, stomach ready and multiple alarms set, I’m up at the crack of dawn (or at least what feels like the crack of dawn on a Saturday) to investigate.
At 9am Rope Walk, decked out in bright bunting zig-zagging across the narrow street, is only just waking up. After a much-needed and delicious coffee from Craft Coffee I spot a man wearing a colourful cravat taking a great deal of care arranging perfect cheese pyramids on his stall. A small man sporting a large top hat, and wheeling a sign as tall as himself, stops to introduce himself to cravat-cheese-man with a handshake and a simple “la enchanté”, before wheeling on and carrying on with preparations. It was at this point I decided I loved Maltby Street Market.
During the week Rope Walk is used by a wood salvage company and rather than empty out the archways, the Saturday traders adjust to their surroundings, using the piles of wood as shelving to display their produce. In one archway bright orange bar stools turn dusty work benches into a gin bar!
Maltby Street Market is like a global tour for your stomach. With trains trundling overhead you can indulge in fresh French pastries, Grecian honey and oil, American-style breakfasts, South African Peri Peri chicken, Spanish ham, French and Swiss cheese, London gin, and good British cakes, to name just a few.
There is such a lovely, friendly, small-town feel to the market, which is something I’m definitely not used to in central London. But Rachel McCormack, Mrs Maltby Street, tells me this is no coincidence.
She explains her choice of traders is very deliberate and, receiving two to three stall requests every week, she can afford to be fussy.
“They must fit in with the ethos of the market and there has to be a good a mix”, Rachel says between greeting passing customers in either her strong Scottish accent or fluent Spanish.
“We want people to know they are getting good food at good prices.”
I also got a chance to chat to stall-owner Edd Kimber, winner of the first series of The Great British Bake Off (wahey!), and discovered the importance of harmony between stall-owners and good quality of produce at this market.
“I really like it, it’s very friendly, has a really nice mix of people and a good atmosphere.”
He adds: “Having a train go over the market is weird, but it is very London. It adds to the whole thing. It’s unique in way.”
Grant Hawthorne, Cape Town-ian stall owner and chef behind the market’s South African Peri Peri sauces, confidently explains: “The people here are intelligent, they know their stuff. The customers come here for a reason.”
Being the hard-hitting journo that I am, I decided to find out more about the rivalry with Borough Market. However my interrogation skills don’t come to much and Rachel is quick to rebuff any notions of inter-market competition.
“The competition is not between the markets. It is with the likes of Tesco and Sainsbury’s,” she says.
“The point is to get people to come here and not to the large supermarkets. People should buy straight from the producers.”
So no scandalous rivalry , but one sugary pastry, a few blueberry pancakes, a multitude of free samples, including a small tot of gin, later and I leave Southwark feeling content, if perhaps a little queasy.
All in all I’d say a successful morning!